Harold also re-read Luciana's instructions that came along with the apartment and found out that no, it wasn't necessary to walk five blocks to the taxi stand; there's a phone number that automatically knows where you're calling from and sends a taxi right to the door! Into a taxi at noon and off to Castel Sant'Angelo, from which he figured the group could follow the ceremonial entry route to St. Peter's along Via della Conciliazione.
Much less traffic on a Saturday, but the taxi driver kept everyone amused as he dodged in and out of traffic, swearing under his breath at every other driver. No surprise, but driving in Rome is pretty much of a slalom event. We've seen first-hand the standoff between driver and pedestrian -- crosswalks are just a guideline, and drivers don't really stop until they see the whites of your eyes.
Anyway, we were dropped off at Castel Sant'Angelo and walked down towards the Vatican, stopping for a hot dog for Daniel and Harold while Annie and Louise decided to wait for their lunch. Into the embracing arms of the Bernini's Colonnade, through the metal detector and up into St. Peter's. Exactly as I remembered from over 30 years ago, and no less impressive. Michelangelo's Pieta in a chapel on the right as you enter; the massive space dimly lit and gleaming with golden mosaics, every surface sculpted, painted covered with marble or otherwise decorated. We stopped before Bernini's Baldocchino and mused on the fact that it was made of the melted-down roof of the Pantheon, which we had visited the day before, then we retraced out steps out into the Piazza and started our way towards the museum entrance, which must be at least half a mile around the perimeter of Vatican City from St. Peters. En route we recharged with bad pizza; Harold dashed into a bar for a much needed double espresso.
Pretty much zoomed into the museum -- we'd recommend to anyone who visits to reserve online in advance. After some discussion we split up. Harold and Annie made for the picture gallery first; Louise and Daniel headed directly for sculpture, the Raphael rooms and the Sistine Chapel. Annie and Harold spent a good hour looking at the pictures, which included a magnificent Caravaggio of the Deposition. We also loved the Raphael tapestries, some of which had come to NYC as part of the Vatican exhibition in the 1980s. Annie noticed that the ancient sculpture inside the museum had been fitted with fig leaves, while the sculpture in outside spaces hadn't; she then got a second wind and virtually sprinted to the Sistine Chapel. The long narrow corridors were continually blocked by large tour groups; Harold used a New Yorkers sharp elbows to clear a path. The restoration a decade ago makes the paintings look as fresh as they might have when Michelangelo finished -- fresh, bright colors and the images crystal clear. Harold did his best to help out the poor guards who were trying to maintain silence and prevent photographs -- a Sisyphean task that.
Annie and Harold then met back up with Louise and Daniel at the cafeteria where we reviewed what we had seen. Harold told Louise and Daniel he had found his dream job; Louise and Daniel gave each other a knowing look and said, almost in unison "Shusher at the Sistine Chapel, at which we all dissolved in gales of laughter. Yup, I'd whip those crowds into shape!
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