It Couldn't Possibly Be More Beautiful Here

It's just after 6 pm here and it had been the most gorgeous afternoon imaginable.  Mid-70s, no humidity, golden sunshine.  If today were a fruit, it would be the most spectacular, perfectly ripe and juicy peach.

Louise, Annie and Daniel arrived right on time around 10 a.m. a little bleary-eyed from the trip but otherwise fine.   After breakfast Louise and Daniel elected fro rest up a little; Annie chose to join me for a visit to the Galleria Doria Pamphlij.  The gallery seems to hide in plain sight.  We thought we were nearby but didn't see any signs, we asked a policeman who shrugged and then we turned a corner and found out we had been standing right outside the side of the building!

It's a wonderful old-fashioned museum, in the rooms of a 16th century palazzo.  Paintings hung cheek-to-jowl, three high in places, with minimal signing, but no crowds and delightful.  The highlights of the collection are Velasquez's portrait of the Pamphlij Pope, in a small room along with Bernini's sculpture of him, and two gorgeous Caravaggios:  Penitent Magdalen and Rest on the Flight from Egypt.)    (Upon seeing the portrait, a masterpiece of piercing psychological insight, the subject supposedly remarked "it's too real for my taste.)

Louise and Daniel then met me and Annie for an alfresco lunch around the corner from the gallery.  Afterwards Daniel took the map and steered us to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.   Right at 4 when it reopened after the lunchtime break, we went to San Luigi dei Francesi to see another three Caravaggios in the Contarelli Chapel:  the spectacular, breathtaking Calling of Saint Matthew, along with the Martyrdom of St. Matthew and St. Matthew and the Angel.  The Calling actually takes your breath away:  no photo I've ever seen comes anywhere close to doing it justice.  You actually look to the right of the painting to see where that cinematic light is coming from.

At this point Daniel, Annie and Louise decided to go back to the apartment while I pressed on; I visited the French bookstore (just like being in Paris) and then San Agostino to see the day's final Caravaggio, the Madonna de Loreto, with the two dirty-footed pilgrims met at the door by a Virgin Mary with a palpably heavy Jesus propped on her hip.  

Took a cab back to the apartment past the the Forum and the Coliseum, which more than made up for getting stuck in rush-hour traffic, and found that Louise had gone shopping for the makings of what looks like a delicious dinner.  Had thoughts of the Rome by Night bus tour but it's earlier than I thought 8 pm and more expensive (41 euros per) so I think that if everyone's jet lag keeps them awake we'll settle on a nighttime walk through Trastevere.

Tomorrow:  The Vatican!